From Dynamo hub, to Simple Bar switch.

From  Bar switch to any dynamo powered USB charger OR dynamo powered LED lamp.

 

OPTION: use a 'USB cache battery' to store your power from your dynamo powered USB charger, for use later when not moving or away from bike. Use that power for re-charging USB devices.

 

 

Not sure what you need and HOW IT WORKS???

 

There are many ways to utilise dynamo power, from the simplest “just run my light” scenario to the “ I want to charge my iphone, camera and GPS,  I will try to cover these end-uses with examples of what has been proven to work in the real world of bikepacking and ultra-endurance racing.

 

Put simply. There are three main scenario

 

  • Lighting 

       Needs: Dynamo and light
 

  • Lighting and charging

      Needs: Dynamo, light and usb converter

 

  • Lighting, charging and storing power

      Needs: Dynamo, light, usb converter and a cache battery. 

 

A fourth scenario is to have all of these things working with a clever and robust switching system custom made for your end-use by Klite. I will give you some background information on what works, and what I think are some of the best solutions to these situations.

 

 

 

Keep it simple

It’s super simple, you only have one switch to play with, it’s all about ease of use.

 

 

Max output 1200lm and 1A USB output .

kLite 1200/700lm lamp and Sinewave Revolution USB charger w 1A USB output

 

 

The ideal scenario

During the day, the hub sends power to the 'USB converter', that charges a 'cache USB battery' that is plugged into the GPS or phone, the GPS / Phone is topped up all day and does not run from its own internal battery, once charged, the cache USB battery is topped up and fully charged from hub (via  dynamo powered USB converter), so when night comes, the now charged, 'cache USB battery' runs your  USB helmet light, or charge you USB device in camp when you stop.

 

 

When you stop / sleep, the now charged, 'cache USB battery' runs lights for tent and or USB charging of phone. It can also charge Garmin Edge 800/810 or Garmin touring, or Garmin Etrex 20/30.

 

Morning comes and the cycle repeats, Charge in the day , collect in the 'USB cache' (limefuel blast a good one), use lights from dynamo in the night, with USB helmet light as back up.

 

 

A good helmet light

 

A good helmet light is a must, for in camp or for use when your going real slow, and the dynamo hub does not have a lot of power. 

 

GPS and your cache battery

Your GPS is a low drain device. My Etrex draws 90mA @ 5v USB, with no backlight. A cache battery has no problem running your GPS, moving, climbing or stopped, as your cache battery has 1-2, 2400mAh USB ports. That would easily drive your GPS @ ~80ma for 130hr using my limefuel L130x (13000mAh/ 48Wh), so a USB cache has no issues running your GPS, the issue is that some GPS throw up a 'lost external power' screen easily, and it is due in-part to the firmware of the unit in question, and sometimes the settings of the GPS.

 

 

 

 Dynamo powered light power vs stored USB power, driving a USB LED light

Charging a battery is never 100% efficient as you will lose 15-20% of the total energy you put into the battery being charged. Your peak power, the MAX you could hope to charge when going fast, from the USB charger is 2.5 to 5w PEAK, so let’s say, 4.25w peak, stored. We then have to output that via the cache battery. Again you have conversion losses converting the stored battery power to USB output power, and again, receiving the power if the LED unit has an internal battery, so let’s say PEAK 4w is what you get to keep and store for the use of running a USB lamp, from a cache battery.

 

If you have your USB light running too high you could use even MORE power from the cache battery than you can collect, and that could lead to a NO LIGHT situation. It’s much better to run your lights DIRECTLY from your dynamo, bypassing the losses of battery power storage, and “switch mode LED driver” conversions. You can't use too much light, or over drain a direct dynamo lighting system, it just works no matter what, and offers a lot more light at any given time (up to 1000lm), due to the peak output of say a kLite dynamo system of 7w with little conversion losses due to no battery charging, and no switch mode drive losses. Cache battery power is hard to get, and hard to keep, use it wisely, as you never know when you will needed it, so use direct dynamo lights and only use USB lights as backup.

 

 

Notes on Lamp:

 

lamp will start in 2 LED mode, then jump to 3 LED when there is power...at same time the standlite will charge.

 

light will run on 2 LED and standlite mode (once charged 2-3 min) when going slow and jumps to 3 LED @ ~ 13km/hr, with its peak power (high mode) 20km/hr.

 

There is high / low mode, stamped on box, but its not really high / low, really its 2 different power curves, one that is LOW mode. It reduces the light and a small amount of drag.

 

High mode, makes some difference when going slow, as it boosts power at slow speed.

 

Most can't feel the difference between H & L, so running it in H mode all the time is fine.

 

When going faster, low mode has a tiny bit less drag, and less light. High mode is brighter and slightly more drag.

 

Use that mode when you need the extra light or are going down hill.
 
when its really dark, you don't need much light, let your eyes adjust, and use low mode. 

 

Use the main bar or topcap swtich to select LIGHT or USB charger.

 

You can charge a USB cache battery or go direct to device.

 

I provide different mounts for your use 22.2mm, 31.8mm bar, 22.2 will fit jones bar, a high rise mount if you use bar bag,  sideways aero bar mount, if you use them... you should be sorted for mounts..

 

**please use good quality USB cables when charing the USB cache battery or other. Quick charge 2.1A rated cables are best if you can find them**

 

**please fully charge USB cache before your trip, the dynamo only tops up what you use**